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No waiting for slow resins means that your fiberglassing job is finished
as fast as you can do the procedure. And, since the cloth stays where
you put it, there are none of those time consuming repairs that are
often necessary, when a section of cloth lifts during curing, as when
using typical methods.
With new UFO™ thin, you can fiberglass right over bare foam.
Any other Instant destroys white foam. For surfaces other than foam,
HOT STUFF™ original can be used.
With
HOT STUFF™, the whole job can be done without the long lasting
odor of typical polyester resins. With UFO™, there are no fumes at all.
All fibers are completely surrounded and there is no need to fill
the weave. Smooth finishes are accomplished by applying easy to sand
and lightweight automotive paint primer. The extra resin (of any type)
that it takes to fill the weave adds nothing significant to the overall
strength but adds a lot of unnecessary weight and is miserable to
sand. Do not put polyester resin over HOT STUFF™ or UFO™.
Often the polyester resin will never cure.
Because all the fibers are completely surrounded with HOT STUFF™
or UFO™, cutting, drilling, or sanding doesn't cause fraying and sanding
doesn't create all of those little fiberglass needles.
1. UFO™ Thick and Thin are the ONLY instant glues that
won't attack white foam.
2. Use only fiberglass or Kevlar™ when applying over foam.
3. Use no polyester resin to fill the weave (see "Finishing")
4. Use NCF Quick™ or SPRAY 'N CURE™ to speed curing.
Special note: for working with foam:
NCF Quick™ and
SPRAY'N CURE™ accelerator wll not attack expanded foam products.
Spray
a very light coat of 3M 77™
spray contact cement over the entire area to be glassed. "very light" means
just that! The contact spray should cover the surface with little pinhead
sized dots, not a coating. So spray from 18 inches to 2 feet away and don't
linger on any one spot. The 3M 77™ will stay tacky for hours, so there
is no rush.
Pre-cut
your fiberglass to the approzimate shape needed, allowing a little to hang
over the edges. Lift the cloth into position and lay it on the surface.
It doesn't matter if it isn't perfectly aligned. Starting from a side having
more access than is needed, lift the cloth and replace it in the desired
position. The cloth can be lifted again for realignment if necessary. When
placement is satisfactory, pass a flat hand over the whole surface to adhere
the fiberglass to the surface below and to smooth it out completely. The cloth will now stay put over unusual
contours and even when inverted.
Both
products have a very thin consistency. Tip the working surface and start
at the top. As one area of cloth is saturated, the glue moves on to another
area, so a small amount of glue goes a long way and weight is held to a
minimum. The object being glassed should be held or propped so that the
area where glue is being applied allows the glue to run downhill without
puddling. Apply the glue in horizontal passes following the glue from the
previous pass down towards the lowest portion of the object. As you apply
the glue you'll see the saturated areas instantly become more transparent.
When finished, check to see that all of the fiberglass has the transparent
appearance. Apply glue to any missed areas. Spray a light spritz of Satellite
City's SPRAY 'N CURE™
over the entire surface. Note: For best results, spray from 2-3 feet above
and with the bottle to the side of work.
The purpose
is to mist on a very small amount of accelerator while avoiding dripping onto
the work. Too much accelerator may cause a bumpy surface as the glue cures
too quickly. While these bumps are easily sanded off, it's best to avoid them.
After accelerator has been applied, wait 30 seconds to a minute, then lightly
touch the surface. If cured, lightly pass your hand along the entire surface.
Re-spray any tacky areas. Note: You will notice that the cured fiberglass
may feel very flexible, especially in areas where rigid support is not present
directly below. (Fiberglass done with UFO over bare foam is a good example
as the cured cloth can be dented if poked.) Full cure takes 24 hours and at
that point the cloth will be completely set. This does not mean you have to
wait to handle and work on the piece, just handle it carefully to avoid dents
while preparing the surface for painting. Keep in mind that this is a thin
lightweight system.
With
the fiberglassing done, you're ready to prepare the surface for painting,
etc. Do not put polyester resin (commonly called "fiberglass
resin") over HOT STUFF™ or UFO™.
Often polyester resin will never cure and extra resin
(of any type) that it takes to fill the weave adds nothing significant to
the overall strength while adding lots of unnecessary weight, and typical
resins are miserable to sand. Smooth finishes are accomplished by applying
easy to sand lightweight Hobby Poxy SMOOTH 'N EASY™
finishing resin (Cat#H-58) - or automotive paint primer. Note: if auto primer
is used, take care to avoid a heavy first coat. Solvents in excessive wet
primer migt seep through pinholes to attack a foam core underneath.
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