1) For small parts, spray NCF™-Quick or SPRAY'N CURE™ lightly on one part, assemble parts and apply HOT STUFF™and new UFO™ Odorless 'THIN' to the crack or joint. For larger bond areas, assemble parts first, apply HOT STUFF™ and new UFO™ Odorless 'THIN' to all sides, then spray NCF™-Quick on the crack or joint where HOT STUFF™ or UFO™ Odorless 'THIN' was applied and wherever glue appears along the edges. NCF™-Quick and SPRAY'N CURE™ make curing really fast, so, keep in mind that penetration is lessened as cure speed gets faster.

2) Very large areas are best bonded using SUPER 'T'™ or SPECIAL 'T'™ or UFO™ Odorless 'THICK'. First check the fit of parts to be bonded to see that they line up as you desire. This is important because bonding time is reduced. Spray NCF™-Quick or SPRAY'N CURE™ on one part and set aside. Apply SUPER 'T'™ or SPECIAL 'T'™ or UFO™ Odorless 'THICK' to the other part in a spiral pattern. The more porous the material, the tighter the pattern should be as some "soaking-in" may occur. Assemble and align parts then hold firmly for ten seconds. Never directly apply any of the HOT STUFF™ glues to an area which has been sprayed with NCF™-Quick or SPRAY'N CURE™, curing will begin too quickly for a good bond to be made. When working in temperatures below 50º F and for hard to bond materials, use NCF™-Quick or SPRAY'N CURE™ with all HOT STUFF™ glues. If too much NCF™-Quick or SPRAY'N CURE™ is sprayed on wet glue, cure is too rapid and glue may appear to foam up or turn white. If this occurs, use less accelerator. A light spritz is all that is necessary.

Never Mix Glue & Accelerator in the same container!

1) To open- puncture tip with safety pin

2) To remove glue from skin- Wet a soft cloth with solvent and apply to glue for 30 seconds. Wipe clean. Repeat as necessary. Wash with soap and water

3) To break existing bonds- Apply solvent directly to bond. Repeat at one-two minute intervals until bond can be separated with gentle force.

4) To remove glue from surfaces or fabric- Apply solvent to glue. After one minute, apply again and rub gently with soft cloth. Repeat until glue is removed. Wash with soap and water.

Note: US-1 may discolor fabric or paint finishes. You should always test on a sample or inconspicuous area before usage.

The symptom: Cure time can be increased to several minutes or longer.

The problem: What is actually happening is that too much glue has been applied for this size job, the glue is cold or gaps are present that require the next thicker version of HOT STUFF™ or UFO™.

Note: This result is also a symptom of trying to use HOT STUFF™ in the same way the gap filling types are used. That is, applying glue to one part before assembly. Always assemble parts first. Then apply HOT STUFF™ THIN.

The solutions:
1) Use less glue, (approx. one drop per square inch of bonding area). Keep glue at room temp.

2)If the material is very porous like cork, for instance, spray one part`with NCF-M™ or NCF™ accelerator before assembly. Then proceed as in #(1), above. Note: either of the gap filling glues, SUPER'T'™ or SPECIAL'T'™, would be the better choices for a very porous material or for objects with large gaps.

3) Use NCF-M™ or NCF or SPRAY'N CURE™ accelerator (see "HOW THEY'RE USED" section).

The Problem:
Rough surfaces allow only a small fraction of the two mated parts to come in contact. The remaining area is pure gap. The higher the ratio of gap to contact area, the slower the cure.

The solution: SUPER'T'™ gap filling , SPECIAL'T'™ ultra gap filling or UFO™ Odorless 'THICK' adhesive should be used for this job. Normal cure times for these glues are 10-25 seconds and 50-60 seconds, respectively. Spraying one part with NCF-M™ or NCF™ or SPRAY'N CURE™ accelerator before applying one of the gap filling glues to the other part speeds curing greatly and increases bond strength.

The problem:
Some materials have slight traces of various oils on their surface. These oils can be within the material or deposited on it in a number of ways. Plywoods, for example are sometimes coated with a mold release to aid their manufacture. When not cleaned off, bonding may be difficult. Skin oil from handling can be a factor, especially when highly acidic. Woods containing large amounts of pitch can be adverse to good bonding. Dampness reduces bond strength dramatically.

Note: oils can include collected deposits from the air, especially in oily or smoggy environments.

The symptom: Slow or weak bonds may be expected when surface contamination is present. Contaminated bonding surfaces can be compared to bonding two painted parts. "HOT STUFF" glues have up to 5000 p.s.i. strength, but the joint is only as strong as the adhesive quality of the paint or oxidation or oil. In other cases, especially where acidic materials are concerned, slow bonds will always occur. And although, bond strength may be affected, the difference isn't as great as with the other contaminants. Dampness reduces bond strength dramatically.

The solution: Always make sure bond area is clean and dry. Visible oil and dirt should be cleaned off with soap and water, bathed in a solvent or wiped with a solvent dampened cloth.

Note: some materials may be adversely affected by certain solvents.

Oxidation may be removed with a light abrasivrating qualitie. If oil traces are suspected but not seen, use NCF-M™ or NCF™ or SPRAY'N CURE™ accelerators. All have a cleaning effect as well as accelees to insure a strong and immediate bond. Use NCF-M™ or NCF™ or SPRAY'N CURE™ accelerators on pitchy or green (uncured) woods.

If HOT STUFF™ glues are stored cold, (see storage info), always allow bottle(s) to come to room temperature before opening. Using these adhesives cold causes cure times to be minutes instead of seconds and shortens shelf life of the remaining contents of the bottle.

Once a bottle has been opened, never return it to cold storage. Moisture drawn into the bottle from opening and use will condense in cold storage and reduce shelf life.

CLOGGING

SEVEN SECRETS for Instant Glues: This text deals with the clogging of delivery spouts of any brand of instant glue, which some users seem to be plagued with. If you constantly find that your spouts clog please read on.

The key word is "Instant", which, for our purposes, means it will cure rapidly if given any incentive. This characteristic is, after all one of the reasons you use these glues. The incentives that the user inadvertently provides at the spout tip are the reasons for clogging. There are many such incentives listed below one or two of which, we hope, will be the cause of any clogging you may be experiencing.

New, unopened containers of any instant glue may be stored in the freezer (at or below 32 degreesF. to double shelf life. Always allow the container to warm to room temperature before opening. Once opened, never return to cold storage.
Why ?
Moisture is one of the catalysts. Opening a cold bottle or placing a previously opened bottle back in cold storage causes the warm air that has entered the bottle, (carrying moisture with it), to condense the moisture into water. This has a negative effect on shelf life causing the contents of the bottle to thicken and eventually harden and causes the spout to clog very frequently. The thicker these glues become, from the original viscosity, the more frequently clogs occur. Note: This is not to say that the gap filling versions are more likely to clog.

Keep the tip of the spout from touching the work, especially if dust, from sanding, is present. Each time the spout touches foreign matter, the glue is effectively being told to cure. Foreign matter, if sucked into the spout, can also cause the contents of the bottle to thicken and eventually harden.

If an overcap is provided, use it to reseal the bottle between uses. The overcap prevents dust or accelerator overspray etc. from settling on the spout. Never wipe off the spout tip with anything. Lint from cloth or paper products sticks to the tip and causes clogging. If you have a problem with clogging overnight or over the course of several days, here is a SPECIAL NOTE REGARDING HOT STUFF glues: If our special sealing ring (located 3/8² down from the tip of an unoppened spout) has not been trimmed off, try tipping the bottle and squeezing slightly to fill the spout with glue. As the beginning of a drop appears ready to come out, snap the overcap in place. Then store the bottle upsidedown and your spout will remain unclogged, ready to use up to several weeks.

Always make sure that accelerator OVERSPRAY doesn't touch an exposed spout. Set glue aside or reseal with the overcap before spraying accelerator.

Avoid putting pins or nails or anything into spout to try to keep it clear. The trace moisture on these objects is carried into the spout and makes clogging more frequent. Instead, trim off the tip a little with a knife.

Shelf life is determined, to a great extent , by the quantity in the container. As a rule of thumb, a two ounce bottle has a one year shelf life at room temperature. As the bottle ages and passes it's expected useful lifetime, the glue begins to thicken. This can also occur because of improper storage or because of foreign matter being introduced into the bottle, as explained above. If you are very familiar with these glues, you know that even glue thickened because of any of the reasons above, is still usable as gap-filling versions. The older (thicker) the glue the more often spouts tend to clog.

 

Replacement spouts are available for most glues. It is always a good idea to have an extra on hand for ths when you have accidentally ruined the current working spout.